Road Trip to Burgundy Part 1
Burgundy is a dream destination for wine lovers, and my road trip there was nothing short of magical. I arrived in Beaune on a beautiful Sunday evening, just in time to catch the warm glow of the setting sun casting a golden light over the city. The sweet scent of spring filled the air, and I felt a bubbling sense of excitement at the prospect of exploring the beautiful vineyards of Burgundy over the next few days.
After settling in, we set out to explore the quaint downtown area and find a place to dine. The cobblestone paths were illuminated by streetlights, and the warm glow added to the cosy ambience of the town. However, finding a restaurant proved to be a challenge, as we quickly discovered that even empty places required a reservation. Finally, after several rejections, we stumbled upon Bissoh restaurant, where we were pleasantly surprised to find a reasonably priced French menu and a small yet excellent wine list.
Mr. Patrice Rion
The next day, I was thrilled to visit Domaine Rion in Nuits-Saint-Georges. I was warmly welcomed by Patrice Rion, and he introduced me to their exceptional range of wines. The winery's dedication to producing high-quality wines was evident in every sip, and I was impressed by their use of traditional techniques and deep understanding of the terroir. Domaine Michele et Patrice Rion is a family-owned winery with a rich history dating back to the early 1900s. Today, it is run by Patrice and his wife Michele, with the help of their son Maxime. Their vineyards cover approximately 9 hectares across some of the most prestigious appellations in the Cote de Nuits, including Chambolle-Musigny, Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Vosne-Romanée. The vineyards are farmed sustainably, with a focus on preserving the biodiversity of the soil and environment.
The white:
The 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Terres Blanches is a true gem. Planted in an exceptional sandy, oolitic soil with an abundance of limestone, this wine is made with 90% chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc. The medium lemon colour immediately catches the eye, and the intense and complex nose of lemon, peach, vanilla, and ginger only adds to its allure. On the palate, the wine speaks volumes, not weight, with excellent balance, almost high acidity, and a core of lemon and stone fruits. The aftertaste is complex and long-lasting. 90/100
The reds:
The charming 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes, crafted from vines with an impressive average age of 50 years. This exceptional wine boasts a beautiful medium ruby colour that will capture your attention immediately. It has warm and inviting aromas of jammy red fruits and juicy redcurrants. It is a well-balanced wine that combines high acidity and silky tannins, resulting in a smooth and satisfying finish. 88/100
The 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges Vieilles Vignes has a deep ruby colour that sets the scene for the intense and complex nose, packed with red and black fruits like redcurrant, sour cherry, blackberry, and bramble. It's a symphony of aromas that requires decanting to express itself fully. On the palate, it's a full-bodied wine with a lively acidity and juicy tannins that coat your mouth. The balance is simply remarkable, with a core of cherry, eucalyptus and raspberry flavours that dance on your taste buds. The finish is a fruity and long-lasting finale that will leave you wanting more. 90/100
I was particularly taken with the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Argillières, an exceptional wine that exudes class and complexity. Its medium purple colour is alluring, and the nose is simply impressive, with blackberries dominating the aroma and red cherry, blueberries, spice, earth, and mushrooms adding complexity. On the palate, it is full-bodied with high acidity and high, silky tannins. The flavours of blackcurrants, raspberry, and truffle are pronounced and perfectly balanced. The finish is complex and long-lasting, leaving a lasting impression. 95/100
The wines produced by Domaine Michele et Patrice Rion are known for their exceptional depth and complexity, with flavours deeply rooted in the terroir. Despite its international reputation, the winery remains a small, family-owned operation, deeply committed to preserving the traditions and heritage of Burgundy winemaking.
The Grand Cru of Vosne-Romanée is a place of stunning beauty, where nature and human craftsmanship blend seamlessly to create a landscape that is both awe-inspiring and serene.
Later that day, I wandered along the famous road of Grand Cru in Vosne-Romanée, taking in the breathtaking landscape of vineyards and hills. The terroir was unlike anything I had ever seen before, and I was left in awe of the stunning vineyards stretching out before me. It is a place of stunning beauty, where nature and human craftsmanship blend seamlessly to create a landscape that is both awe-inspiring and serene. The vineyards are neatly arranged in rows, each one meticulously cared for and tended to with the utmost attention to detail. The vines themselves are an impressive sight, and the hills that surround the vineyards are equally as remarkable, rising up from the valley floor to create a dramatic backdrop that is both striking and majestic.
My next stop was the Château de Chamirey in Mercurey, where I was blown away by the excellent hospitality of the staff. I was welcomed like an old friend and treated to a tasting of all the wines from Château de Chamirey, Domaine des Perdrix, and Domaine de la Garenne, all operated by the Devillard family. Each wine was more delicious than the last, and the panoramic views of the vineyards and surrounding countryside from the tasting room made for a truly unforgettable experience.
The Château de Chamirey castle.
Château de Chamirey is a historic French castle and vineyard located in the heart of the Côte Chalonnaise wine region. Its rich history dates back to the 18th century when the Marquis de Jouennes built it. Since the early 1930s, it has been in the hands of the Devillard family, who have worked tirelessly to maintain its legacy and reputation. The vineyard covers over 37 hectares on the hillsides of Mercurey, a charming village with centuries of winemaking history. The unique terroir of Mercurey, with its blend of clay and limestone soils, gives the wines from Château de Chamirey a distinctive character that is truly remarkable.
Domaine des Perdrix is a prestigious winery located in Nuits-Saint-Georges. It is known for its exceptional Pinot Noir wines, which are crafted with passion and precision by a team of skilled winemakers. The Devillard family, with five generations of winemaking experience, took over the winery in 1996. Since then, they have upheld its reputation for producing some of the best wines in the region. The flagship wine of the Domaine, the 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru, was a standout with its rich and powerful flavours of dark fruits, spices, and earthy undertones. And the 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Perdrix was a complex and elegant wine with floral aromas and a long, persistent finish.
Echézeaux Grand Cru, Domaine des Perdrix
The day ended with a delightful dinner at Le Vendangerot, where I indulged in a large selection of cheeses instead of dessert. I drifted off to sleep that night with a sense of fullness, not just from the delicious meal but from the unforgettable experiences of the day. Burgundy had stolen my heart with its charming villages, breathtaking landscapes, and exceptional wines. I couldn't wait to explore more of this magical region the following day.
What better than cheese instead of dessert?